Alaska 2019

In June 2019 I made my first visit to Alaska. my 39th state to visit.  The whole trip can be divided into 2 halves.  For the first half, Debbie and I caught a direct flight from DFW to Anchorage.  The next morning we were up early and made the 5 hour drive up to Denali National Park.  The only real way to explore the park besides hiking is to ride a bus, which we rode 66 miles into the park.  The next day we drove back to Anchorage (we originally expected to have more time, but it didn't happen and its a long story).  My friends Rich & Anthony flew up from Austin and we met them there.  The next day started the second half of the trip, sort of.  The original plan was to fly to St. Paul Island in the Bering Sea.  Except the island was completely fogged in and our flight was cancelled.  So we were left to find a hotel room last minute at the peak of tourism season in Alaska.  We got lucky and a room was found for us, though it was less than ideal.  The next day the flight took off, and we made it to the island.  We spent a couple days there bird watching, and then more importantly our flight back to the mainland left on time!  Below are some photos from this northern adventure.  Enjoy!

Looking out from Polychrome Overlook.  The Athabascans would sit up at this spot and watch over the valley below for large game to move across, like caribou and moose.

A parent and juvenile Golden Eagle sitting on a rock outcrop.

Looking at the Alaska Range from 66 miles inside Denali National Park.  The snow-capped mountains in the back are around 10 miles away.

Timer & tripod shot from Eileson Visitor Center, 66 miles inside Denali.

Arctic ground squirrel.  Habituated ground squirrels have no qualms about getting all up in your business if they think you have food.

These 2 moose skulls were displayed at Eileson VC.  They were found nearby on the tundra exactly like this.  It was 2 males who got locked up while battling for dominance, and that sealed their fate.

Closer image, you can see in the heat of battle one moose punctured the eye socket of the other, and they couldn't get unstuck.  Either dehydration got them, or the wolves and bears did it.  No matter how it happened, it was an unpleasant couple of deaths.

A mother and year-old cub Grizzly.  We saw a total of 6 on our bus ride.  They are not as big in Denali, a female Grizzly is slightly larger than a male black bear.

A ratty looking caribou.

Dall Sheep, high up on a mountain.  The park was originally created to protect this species.  The Alaskan gold rush brought a lot of people into the region and these sheep were nearly hunted to extinction.

Willow Ptarmagin, a male.

Snowshoe Hare in summer clothes.  I'd love to tell you every shot is from a wild and pristine spot.  But, this guy was eating day-old pastries in a gas station parking lot.  But it held still and I was able to get close for the shot, so I'll take it.

On our return trip we took a quick drive down the Denali Highway (not in the park), and I got this shot looking back at the Alaska Range.

Mt Denali.  The highest point in North America.  Not a pristine view of the peak, but it is only visible about 10% of the time, so we were pretty happy with our views.  

Wider view of Denali, looking from Denali State Park.

After returning to Anchorage, me and the 2 friends went to look for this Falcated Duck.  This is an Asian species that only rarely shows up in North America.  This one was hanging out in a marsh right outside Anchorage for many weeks and was kind enough to give us some good looks.

Arctic Tern in good light.  These birds breed in Alaska & Canada, but migrate to the Antarctic and have probably the longest migration in the world.

Baby Arctic Tern having a meal of fresh shrimp that was just brought by a parent.

Fireweed.  One of my favorite arctic/alpine wildflowers.

Finally leaving from Anchorage and flying on that to get to St. Paul.  It doesn't carry enough fuel to make it there in one shot, we had to stop going out and coming back to get more gas.

Ahh yes, the unique St. Paul Island.  The larger white building on the left is the King Eider Inn, basically a college dorm.  The smaller building center is the "airport" and the larger rusty building in airport operations, in a manner of speaking.

Lupines.  We have a couple species of these in Texas, known as Bluebonnets.  Look very similar, but they grow in very different conditions!  It was never out of the 40s the whole time we were there.

Rock Sandpiper, on a rock.

Tufted Puffin.

Least Auklet.

More arctic wildflowers.

One thing I was not prepared for was how incredibly lush it was there.  Despite it being cold (by my standards) the whole time, life was going full speed ahead.  Having 20 hours a day of light probably helps.

Thick-billed Murre, one of the birds that nests on these islands.

Alcids are sometimes referred to as the penguins of the north, and you can kinda see why.  They're not at all related, and they can fly quite well, so similarities are only superficial.

Tufted Puffin.

A small view of one of the nesting cliffs on St. Paul.  Lotsa bird poop.

Arctic Fox.  They hang out at the base of the nesting cliffs.  Not everyone is sure footed, and mistakes mean a nice meal for a fox.

Patiently waiting for a mistake.

Crested Auklet.  I have no idea why they have the head feathers.  I think its only because other Crested Auklets think they're sexy.  

2 Crested Auklets liking each other's head feathers.

Some of the cliffs on St. Paul.  Buddies Rich & Anthony up on top.

Looking the other direction down St. Paul.  This was the weather the whole time- chilly and low overcast.  Except when it was just foggy.

Black-legged Kittiwake.

Horned Puffin.  Those feathers coming off the eyes are the "horns".

Horned Puffin in flight.

Historically the main attraction for humans to the Pribiloff Islands was these: northern fur seals.  The colonies used to number in the millions, but now they're much smaller.  This is a large male, and he's telling another seal where it can go.

Same seal like 10 seconds after the previous photo, now in a zen moment.  Go figure.

Not all the seals survive.  There's a dead one in front of the fox.  And one happy fox that will be eating good for a while.

The town of St. Paul itself.  A little nicer than the airport-hotel complex.  But not a lot.

Crab pots being stored during the off season.  Ever watch Deadliest Catch?  These are the pots that go on those boats, or at lest that fleet.

Arctic Fox.  They weren't just in the wild parts of the island.  They also dumpster dive quite happily.  Resourceful animals who are not picky eaters.

With the head turned down slightly.

Another Rock Sandpiper.

Black-legged Kittiwakes on one of the docks.

Red-legged Kittiwakes, a different species,  Pretty much the only place in the world to find this species is the Pribiloff Islands.

Different bird and a different view.

Male Snow Bunting, with food for nestlings.

The north side of the island, Marunick Beach.  This side is more sheltered, so kelp forests grow just off shore.

Glaucous-winged Gull working the kelp wrack.

The arctic foxes were everywhere.

Harlequin Ducks in the water just off the north side of the island.

Red-faced Cormorants.

Parakeet Auklets getting cozy together.