Monday, July 21, 2014

Old Buildings & Sand Part 2- The Architecture



Charleston itself is the part that is built out on the peninsula between the Ashley and Cooper Rivers.  This is the oldest area, and the area that tourists focus on, like us.  Most of the time if you were to ask someone about Charleston, they would say it is where the US Civil War started.  This is true, the first shots were at Ft. Sumter.  More on that later.  After that, Charleston played only a minor role in that war thanks to the Union blockading the harbor.  Not much of anything happened after that.  Charleston had a much larger role in the American Revolution, although the Deep South is not much thought of when we talk about gaining independence from England.  Several instrumental battles were fought in South Carolina though.



There are several things that draw people to visit Charleston.  One is the architecture.  Because of limited space, the peninsula was pretty much built out by 1850 or so, and most of those buildings are still there.  There are some stunning examples of antebellum architecture, and a style that is unique to Charleston, the Single House. 


This is the typical house in Charleston.  The narrow end faces the street and the “front door” does not go into the house.  In most places we would say it opens into a porch, but that would be incorrect to say there.  It is not a porch, nor is it a veranda.  It is called a piazza in Charleston, because that sounds more cultured.  There are lots of windows and lots of open space to facilitate air flow.  It gets wickedly humid in Charleston during the summer.


Here the designers stuck windows wherever they felt like it.  I have no idea where the floors are in relation to the windows on the long side of that house!


Charleston has an Old World feel, but with palm trees everywhere.


Charleston was established in the late 1600s.  This is a picture of the Pink House, which is made of stone brought from Bermuda.  Construction on the house began in 1694, it is one of the oldest buildings in the South.  It has served as everything from a tavern to attorneys’ offices.


This is the Powder Magazine, the oldest public building in Charleston, built in 1713.  It was used to store gunpowder.  Doesn’t look like much but it has a pretty crafty design.  There are only a few exterior doors.  The walls are 3 feet thick at the base and only a few inches thick at the top.  Both of these features are there to push an explosion upward and not outward.  And the roof has a layer of sand built into so if an explosion did occur, the sand would pour down and start putting the fire out.  Like I said, pretty crafty.


Charleston is nicknamed the Holy City because of all the churches.  And they are everywhere!  That one above is St. Philips Episcopal church, which was built in 1836.  It gets a little confusing because St. Philips was built on the site of St. Michael’s church, which burned down.



And this is the “new” St. Michael’s Episcopal church.  It was built in 1751, so new is kind of a relative term.



One of the prettiest structures in Charleston, this the French Huguenot church, home to the only Calvinist congregation in the United States.  Debbie and I both really enjoyed the gothic style of this church, it was only two blocks from our hotel.


This was a block away from our hotel.  It is the Circular Congregation church.  Hard to appreciate from this photo, but it was a round building.  A very attractive one at that.  An interesting factoid is that many of the churches do not have church bells.  They were taken down because the metal was needed for the war effort in the Civil War with the promise all the bells would be replaced once the Confederacy was able to declare victory.  I guess it’s just symbolic now, but they’re still waiting some 150 years later.


We went on a carriage ride one afternoon.  I highly recommend carriage rides, they’re a lot of fun and very educational.  We learned a couple of things from our driver/guide.  Back in the day, it was not acceptable to display your wealth on the outside of your house.  Opulence was expressed inside the house.  But homeowners would make subtle efforts to display the industry they worked in.


Notice the flowers around the outside of this window.  The owner of this house worked in the cotton industry.


This gentleman worked in shipping, as evidenced by the rope running down the sides of his door.

I don’t have a picture of it, but our guide also pointed out that one can age houses by their siding.  He showed us some features in the shape of the siding and said certain shapes were not built after 1800.  If we saw those, it was safe to assume a  house was built in the 1700s and that it still had the original bald cypress siding!!  It boggles my mind to imagine natural materials exposed to the elements lasting that long.


We passed by a house that looked worse than this one that was for sale.  How much do you think the above house is worth, as-is?  Did you guess $50,000?  A good try, but you need to add a zero.  Houses that are nearly at the state of condemnation sell for a half-million dollars and will require at least that much to get back to a normal condition.  Already at a normal condition?  More than a million easily, and that’s for less than 2000 square feet.  Does it have a driveway?  That bumps it up to two million.    

Then there’s the process of doing *anything* at all to the house.  Charleston is ruled by an Architectural Review Board.  They have a lot of power, but they are there to ensure Charleston keeps its historical character.  What that means is that if you want to do anything to the outside of the house- for example paint your shutters the exact same color they already are, just a fresh coat of paint- you have to go get a permit from the ARB and jump through their hoops.  Its probably crappy for residents, but it does make sure Charleston stays what it is.


Every morning we were there, I got up at the crack of dawn and walked around Charleston before the city really woke up, and while it was relatively cool.  One place I came across was this, the Sword Gate House.  Those gates were built in 1838 and were meant for the city’s new Guard House, but were never installed.  They were put on this private residence in 1849 and have been there ever since.


A relatively unique structure in Charleston, this is the Farmers & Exchange Bank, built in 1854.  The style is called Moorish Revival.  Unfortunately it was impossible to get a shot of the full building, but it was pretty neat.


Last bit of architecture, this is the City Jail.  It is currently being restored and is actually home to the American College of the Building Arts, which focuses on historic restorations.  Another interesting place, evidently they built it with zero plumbing- incoming or sewage.  During its use some 14,000 people died here, mostly of diseases like cholera.

Continued in Part 3, which an be found here

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